Subscribe Now »

Special Holiday Deal

Give the Gift of the

Give one person a magazine subscription for $29.95, and get each additional subscription for just $19.95.


Get Dining Out delivered to your inbox every Wednesday Morning.

First Look: Fyve
A little Italy—but it’s still the Ritz By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
A salad of charred octopus at the new Fyve shows chef Amy Brandwein’s affinity for robust Italian flavors. Photograph by Fredde Lieberman.
Comments () | Published July 23, 2008
The Ritz-Carlton group has been big on chef “consultants.” Le Bernardin’s Eric Ripert was tapped to install bistros in DC and Philadelphia hotels, and rumor has it that the Ritz is angling for Hell’s Kitchen chef Gordon Ramsey to oversee the kitchen of what was once Maestro in the hotel’s Tysons Corner branch. For the new Fyve, located in the more conservative Pentagon City hotel (you’ll see as many men in fatigues as women in Theory blazers), the chain looked to homegrown talent: a chef who actually would be working in the kitchen.

Enter Amy Brandwein, Roberto Donna’s protégé at Galileo and Bebo Trattoria. The chef at Fyve shares her mentor’s affinity for robust Italian flavors, and it’s hard not to fill up on the generous basket of crusty country bread and spiced crackers, served with a purée of artichokes and pecorino. Brandwein’s marvelous spring-vegetable soup is a Parmesan-rich broth with a bounty of finely chopped zucchini and cauliflower, sweet corn, and cous cous. More restrained but also lovely is a charred-octopus salad gilded with green olive oil.

So far, main courses are works in progress. A lemon-roasted chicken with almonds and pears would have been delicious had its rosy meat not been as dry as overdone turkey. Amy’s Purse—a filet of cod poached in a cumin-scented tomato broth (and cutesily named for its presentation in a plastic bag)—was about as exciting as spa food. A Moroccan-spiced salmon set over bland olive-scented mashed potatoes was, conversely, far too salty.

Gray leather place mats, orange overstuffed chairs, and a trip-hoppy soundtrack set a modish tone, but the rest of the cream-colored, chandeliered dining room is still very much the old Ritz.

Fyve Restaurant Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Pentagon City, 1250 S. Hayes St., Arlington; 703-415-5000; Open Monday through Saturday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Sunday for breakfast, brunch, and dinner.


More First Looks at New Restaurants 

More>> Best Bites Blog | Food & Dining | Restaurant Finder 


New Restaurants New Restaurants New Restaurants
Subscribe to Washingtonian

Discuss this story

Feel free to leave a comment or ask a question. The Washingtonian reserves the right to remove or edit content once posted.
blog comments powered by Disqus

Posted at 06:18 AM/ET, 07/23/2008 RSS | Print | Permalink | Comments () | Blogs