Cheap Eats 2013: Rus Uz

Quick reviews of ethnic cuisines you can experience for less than $25 a person, tax and tip included.
Dumplings with ground lamb and chive. Photograph by Scott Suchman.
Dumplings with ground lamb and chive. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

At this authentically gut-busting tour of Russia and Uzbekistan, a gem of the Ballston dining scene, owner/chef Bakhtiyor Rakhmatullaev demonstrates the manifold and delicious possibilities inherent in meat and dough—from the terrific lineup of savory stuffed pastries (samsas, cheburekis, and piroshkas) to the pelmeni (tortellini-like dumplings filled with ground beef) and manti (palm-size pillows filled with peppery lamb and topped with yogurt) that form the backbone of the small menu. For a change of pace—or just to lighten the heartiness—opt for the excellent smoked-fish platter, a generous assortment of salmon, butterfish, and sturgeon.

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