When the gluten-intolerant say they long for bread, this is the sort of meal they must dream of. Bakhtiyor Rakhmatullaev’s cooking evokes bitter winter nights in Moscow, when everyone seeks warmth and rib-sticking comfort in the form of meat pies and dumplings. These include chebureki, a spiced-beef pastry that can stand as the centerpiece of a light lunch or kick off a night of carbo-indulgence climaxing with pelmeni, a tortellini-like dumpling filled with ground beef, or manti, fist-size ravioli stuffed with sliced beef and buried beneath drifts of yogurt.
Where you can get it: 1000 N. Randolph St., Arlington; 571-312-4086
Also good: Fish Under a Fur Coat, a salad of herring, beets, and carrots; chicken Kiev; plov, a rice casserole with lamb and raisins.