100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Sushi Sono

Cost:

At Columbia’s Sushi Sono, a whole aji (horse mackerel) is deep-fried with salt and served as sushi or sashimi. Photograph by Andrew Propp.

About Sushi Sono

Cost:

cuisines
Japanese, Sushi

Be prepared to spring for the good stuff at this busy lakefront restaurant. That’s not to say you can’t have an enjoyable meal otherwise—the sushi is well sliced and fashioned with care—but the pleasures here are heightened when you order off the specials list and splurge on the more expensive rolls. Among the former: a whole aji, or horse mackerel, presented two ways—nigiri on one side, sashimi on the other—and both exceptional. Actually, three ways is more accurate, because you’ll be asked whether you’d like the carcass turned into a soup or deep-fried (go for fried; the bones crunch like chips and are addictive with a sprinkle of sea salt). The maki list includes some of the most attractive and inventive rolls in the area, among them a head-turning dragon roll, made with lobster.

Open: Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.

Don’t Miss: Bridal Veil roll, with spicy lobster salad; Neptune Garden roll, with shrimp, crab, masago roe, and avocado; sushi and sashimi, including white tuna, yellowtail and fatty tuna.


Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.

Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.