Elaborate sushi rolls are often vehicles for subpar fish. Not so at this lakeside Japanese gem, where maki are thoughtfully composed to highlight flavor and texture—and halt conversation, as when a shrimp-tempura roll, crispy head and all, arrives wrapped in a whole lobster tail. Presentation is exquisite across the board, including more traditional dishes such as fans of fluke sashimi dressed in soy and scallions or dobin-mushi, a teapot filled with delicate seafood broth, shellfish, and ginkgo nuts. Mind the specials board above the sushi bar for seasonal fish, such as fatty black-snapper nigiri dabbed with spicy vinegar. Friendly servers in crisp blue kimonos are happy to translate—or recommend drinks, including hard-to-find Japanese rice lagers. Expensive.
Also great: Ohitashi (cold spinach) with bonito flakes; crunchy soft-shell-crab appetizer; Hurricane Roll (spicy tuna with crab and puffed brown rice); aji (mackerel) three ways.