If you’d never been and decided to chance dropping by here on a weekend night without a reservation, you’d encounter a line out the door and you’d probably begin looking around the lakefront complex at other options. The reason to stick it out—or make a reservation—is the consistently high quality of the fish and the skill of the veteran sushi chefs. This is special-occasion sushi, but you might not know it, given the lack of trappings and the absence of ceremonial hush. But one look at the rolls ought to persuade you. Yes, rolls. At most places, they’re convenient excuses to use up tougher, chewier parts of the fish; here, they’re conceived as showstoppers. Pay attention to the specials posted over the sushi bar, where you’ll find rarities and choice cuts.
Don’t miss: Sunomono (seaweed and cucumber); fried tofu; Dragon Roll; “Bridal Veil” Roll; shrimp hand rolls; sashimi and nigiri, including yellowtail, sweet shrimp, live scallop, and fatty tuna; aji (mackerel) three ways; fried soft-shell crab.