It’s no longer a matchbox: An expansion more than doubled the size of this always-packed Chinatown hangout and added a second pizza oven to the multilevel space.
The long bar by the entrance remains unchanged—and one of the best places in town to enjoy a Chimay Ale. A good accompaniment, and the best reason to eat here, is a plate of miniburgers—three, six, or nine little sandwiches with tiny patties of seasoned Angus topped with a pickle slice and served in a glistening roll with a little smear of mustard. Specify that you want them medium-rare, and request that the mountain of onion straws atop the plate be freshly fried. Good, well-dressed salads help temper the richness.
The consistency of the pizza has declined, and much of the rest of the menu is beyond the Cheap Eats budget. But the miniburgers and fries, the good beer, salads, and the occasional good pizza are reason enough to brave the crowds.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
