The eclectic decor—velvet curtains and gas lamps—has nothing on chef Tony Chittum’s wild ride of a menu. On a recent visit, seared scallops paired well with a panzanella salad made from Parker House rolls, a lamb kebab got a boost from Greek yogurt dotted with feta, and a medley of pulled pork and barbecue pork loin had just the right tang. Overrichness can get the better of Chittum, as with a roasted chicken with ham and brown butter and a groan-inspiring cream-cheese-iced hummingbird cake.

This review appeared in the September, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.