(5333 Wisconsin Ave., NW, 202-966-2593; Tysons Galleria, 703-356-3850). Curbside service is one of the big draws at this Italian chain that stokes nostalgia for Little Italy and Sinatra. Order food to go and a server will bring it out to your car when you arrive.

Though red-sauce Southern Italian plates dominate the roster, our favorite takeout meal is whole roast chicken with rosemary and garlic ($17.95), olive-oil-sautéed spinach with lemon ($6.75), and crispy red potatoes ($6.25), with an order of Parmesan-garlic bread flecked with parsley ($5.25) to nibble on the way home. Portions are big enough to feed two, even three. On the lighter side, a salad of arugula with roast chicken and white balsamic vinaigrette ($13.50) is a standout.

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