This outpost of Jeff and Barbara Black’s empire, in a quaint yellow house that looks like an old-time general store, is a charmer—but inconsistency from the kitchen isn’t as endearing. Oysters with a crackly cornmeal crust are a great starter. Excellent follow-ups are trout with beets and braised cabbage, a big pork chop, and an apple dumpling or pumpkin cheesecake. But an overdressed Caesar salad and the Fall Vegetable Harvest plate, featuring a dry polenta cake, were disappointments. Most other dishes hovered around satisfactory.
