Cuisine: Big-night-out classics are reliably done, as they have been for decades. This is the place to go when you’re weary of fusion and long for no-tricks cooking.

Mood: Black lacquer paneling, tuxedoed waiters, and a jazz duo Monday through Saturday nights give the place a supper-club feel.

Best for: Anyone after a big-time, beef-laden night out.

Best dishes: Classic oysters Rockefeller; roasted prime rib; crab imperial; crab cake; bone-in rib eye; crispy potato skins with zippy horseradish sauce; sautéed squash and zucchini; retro pink strawberries Romanoff.

Insider tips: The three-course lunch for $24.95—starter, entrée with two sides, and dessert—is a very good deal. Bonus: Ties and jackets for men, required at dinner, are optional at lunch.

Service: •••

Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. Expensive to very expensive.

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