Bombay Curry Company
Some excellent cooking comes from this humble Indian storefront.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published October 10, 2006
Dirt Cheap Eats (2008)
Bombay Curry Company (Closed)
Address: 3110 Mount Vernon Avenue, Alexandria, VA 22305
Phone: 703-836-6363
Neighborhood: Alexandria, Del Ray, Alexandria
Cuisines: Indian
Opening Hours: Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 9:30, and Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 10.
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes Bhaji; chat papri; chicken kadai; tandoori chicken; pathar kebab; butter chicken; Goan fish curry; lamb vindaloo; chicken curry with lentiils; biryani; breads, such as naan, roti, and onion kulcha; saffron rice pudding; gulab jamun.
Price Details: Appetizers $1.95 to $4.95; entrées $7.95 to $10.95. Sunday buffet, $8.95.

From June 2006 Cheap Eats

A raft of new Indian restaurants has opened in the last several years, each hot new arrival in a race to outstrip its predecessors in stylishness and trendiness. This simple storefront restaurant lacks the boldness of those newcomers, not to mention the backing capital. It speaks quietly but distinctively--from the antique ceiling fans that set off the olive-colored walls and give the tiny room an air of languor to the pepper shakers (filled with red, not black, pepper) to the black-marker-scrawled menu.

Just two pages, it contains a surprising number of seldom-seen dishes: Chicken kadai, a northern-Indian dish, brims with tomatoes, garlic, and ginger, and pathar kebab does a neat trick in turning the expected sausage inside out--the result is a scallopine of sorts, a pounded filet of lamb tossed on the grill and given a quick charring, then plated alongside a round of naan still hot from the tandoor.

More familiar dishes are not ignored. As often as not, they're more pungent, vivid, and interesting than their counterparts elsewhere; the kitchen's rendition of Butter Chicken is more tomatoey than most, and it's impossible to miss the presence of the toasted clove and cardamom. And its Goan fish curry is made by stirring a handful of coconut shreds into the coconut milk--a textural chewiness that plays against the silken flakes of halibut.

If there's a weakness, it's that the meats are occasionally not as tender as they could be, failing to match the intensity or interest of their complexly rendered gravies.

Dessert is an unexpected strength, from a delicate, saffron-infused rice pudding to a superb version of gulab jamun, those light, sweet fried dumplings bathed in a thin honey sauce.
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Posted at 05:24 PM/ET, 10/10/2006 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews