Food

Cheap Eats 2011: Four Sisters

This grande dame of area Vietnamese restaurants has fans who include top chefs, such as Inn at Little Washington proprietor Patrick O’Connell. Its appeals are many: a color-splashed space, warm service–often from one of the sisters the place was named for–and a remarkably consistent kitchen.

The 149-item menu has many good entry points, but we like to start with the shrimp toast–airy baguette halves slathered in shrimp paste and deep-fried to a crisp –or a round of spring rolls. Then there are caramel clay pots with pork ribs, heaping platters of cold vermicelli with herbs and grilled pork, and shaky beef with a kicky lime-and-pepper dip. The only downside? This is no hidden gem. Waits for tables at prime times and on weekends can be long.

Also good: Clam hash; lotus-root salad; lemongrass chicken; bánh xèo crepe; fresh lime soda.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.

Senior editor

Andrew Beaujon joined Washingtonian in late 2014. He was previously with the Poynter Institute, TBD.com, and Washington City Paper. He lives in Del Ray.