Best of 2004: Crustaceous Pizza

Would you like a cockle with your pizza?

The glories of the Neapolitan pizzas at 2 Amys (3715 Macomb St., NW; 202-885-5700) are no secret: The place is packed even on weeknights. The pizza margherita is terrific, and you can't go wrong with first-rate toppings like prosciutto di Parma, mozzarella di bufala, and chanterelle mushrooms.

Then there's the Vongole ($12.95), its feather-light crust laden with shavings of grana padano (a hard, Reggiano-like cheese), capers, garlic, parsley, and lots of tiny, briny New Zealand cockles still in their shells. Dashes of hot pepper add zing. It's salty, earthy, unexpected–and divine.

Washingtonian staff contributing to this section were Chuck Conconi, Sherri Dalphonse, Susan Davidson, Mary Clare Fleury, Cynthia Hacinli, Thomas Head, Stephanie Jones, Ann Limpert, Drew Lindsay, Chad Lorenz, Leslie Milk, William O'Sullivan, Cindy Rich, and Jeremy Stahl.  Also contributing were writers Cathy Alter, Ann Cochran, and Jenny Sullivan. 

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