Food

100 Best Restaurants 2008: Lewnes’ Steakhouse

No. 96: Lewnes' Steakhouse

Cuisine: An old-fashioned steakhouse in thrall to a new phenomenon: wet-aging. Purists may scoff, but these well-marbled, well-crusted slabs of meat make up for a loss of nuttiness with juiciness and savor.

Mood: More like a neighborhood tavern than a steakhouse, this corner restaurant just across the Spa Creek Bridge in Eastport overflows with backslapping locals and bonhomie.

Best for: A steak dinner without the usual trappings—or money traps.

Best dishes: Porterhouse; New York strip; Lyonnaise potatoes sprinkled with paprika; creamed spinach; Key-lime pie.

Insider tips: Load up on the sides, which are reasonably priced—$5.95 for a plate of creamed spinach—and big enough for two to share. And the restaurant’s private reserve of wines will reward diners who want to drink as well as they eat.

Service: ••

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