Food

Chubby Checker

Fall is made for weekend drives, and if you like a reward at the end of your journey, check out Chubby’s Southern Style Barbecue in Emmitsburg, Maryland (16430 Old Frederick Rd.; 301-447-3322), five minutes from the Mason-Dixon Line. Owner Tom Caulfield claims he can make it there from Chevy Chase in less than an hour. Is it worth it? If you order the pulled pork and the beef brisket, absolutely. The pulled pork is blush pink, smoky, and served in hacked hunks that separate into gorgeous ropes of meat. Mercifully, it’s not bathed in sauce. The pork cooks overnight for 14 hours in a smoker, as does the brisket, which bears the hallmark of all great briskets—a soft, luscious texture that can’t be rushed.

This appeared in the October, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.