Cuisine: Chef/owner Peter Smith might dabble in ragoûts and udon noodles, but his real passion lies in mining a deep vein of regional American cooking. He has the most fun with his lounge menu, which features upscale takes on Chicago-style hot dogs (everything made in-house) and the signature French-fry-topped sandwich from Pittsburgh’s Primanti Brothers. The more expensive dining-room offerings are less fun—and less reliable.
Mood: There’s a buzz in the bar and lounge, where cocktail maven Gina Chersevani presides in her flowered apron over a bright-yellow lava-rock bar. The mood in the steely dining room is quieter and more suited for business dinners.
Best for: Happy hours or dates in the lounge (most everything is shareable); Chersevani’s excellent, outside-the-box cocktails, which feature everything from Miller High Life to marshmallows.
Best dishes: Tiny oxtail “tots”; flatbread topped with Buffalo chicken, blue cheese, and celery; snappy miniature hot dogs with house-made ketchup; tuna-tartare-filled sliders on buttery Parker House rolls; Primanti Brothers sandwich with soppresatta, shoestring fries, and a runny egg; sirloin au poivre, light on the pepper but thick and satisfying; short ribs and foie gras baked in flaky pastry; warm beignets served in a paper bag; Situation Rum cocktail with hibiscus tea; Yes We Can-ton, with Cava and pineapple; toasted cider punch.
Insider tips: A weeknight happy hour—with $3 beer, $4 wine, and half-price flatbreads—runs from 4 to 7.
Service: ••
Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. Expensive.
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Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
