The inside of the cavernous Hil Country. Photograph by Scott Suchman
Signs add a “roadhouse” feel to the place. Photograph by Scott Suchman
Food at Hill Country comes served in cardboard baskets; drinks come in Mason jars. Photograph by Scott Suchman
The decor feels just a little too contrived to be authentic. Photograph by Scott Suchman
One of the best dishes is the moist, or fatty, brisket, which is tender and rich. Photograph by Scott Suchman
Smoked chicken with sides of corn pudding and collard greens. Photograph by Scott Suchman
Skillet cornbread with ancho-honey butter. Photograph by Scott Suchman
The sausage comes from Kreuz market in Lockhart, Texas, and is fine-grained, well spiced, with a pop in the casing. Photograph by Scott Suchman
A cook slices the fatty brisket. Photograph by Scott Suchman
Meats are smoked with oak wood shipped in from Texas. Photograph by Scott Suchman
Sides include corn pudding, cucumber salad, collard greens, and sweet-potato-and-bourbon mash. Photograph by Scott Suchman
The peanut-butter-and-jelly cupcake. Photograph by Scott Suchman
The cupcake has jelly on the inside. Photograph by Scott Suchman
