
The inside of the cavernous Hil Country. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Signs add a “roadhouse” feel to the place. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Food at Hill Country comes served in cardboard baskets; drinks come in Mason jars. Photograph by Scott Suchman

The decor feels just a little too contrived to be authentic. Photograph by Scott Suchman

One of the best dishes is the moist, or fatty, brisket, which is tender and rich. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Smoked chicken with sides of corn pudding and collard greens. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Skillet cornbread with ancho-honey butter. Photograph by Scott Suchman

The sausage comes from Kreuz market in Lockhart, Texas, and is fine-grained, well spiced, with a pop in the casing. Photograph by Scott Suchman

A cook slices the fatty brisket. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Meats are smoked with oak wood shipped in from Texas. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Sides include corn pudding, cucumber salad, collard greens, and sweet-potato-and-bourbon mash. Photograph by Scott Suchman

The peanut-butter-and-jelly cupcake. Photograph by Scott Suchman

The cupcake has jelly on the inside. Photograph by Scott Suchman