![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCoverhead.jpg)
The inside of the cavernous Hil Country. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCsigns.jpg)
Signs add a “roadhouse” feel to the place. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCbasketmeat.jpg)
Food at Hill Country comes served in cardboard baskets; drinks come in Mason jars. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCchaircloseup.jpg)
The decor feels just a little too contrived to be authentic. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCbrisketcloseup.jpg)
One of the best dishes is the moist, or fatty, brisket, which is tender and rich. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCchicken.jpg)
Smoked chicken with sides of corn pudding and collard greens. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCcornbread.jpg)
Skillet cornbread with ancho-honey butter. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCsausage.jpg)
The sausage comes from Kreuz market in Lockhart, Texas, and is fine-grained, well spiced, with a pop in the casing. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCslicingmeat.jpg)
A cook slices the fatty brisket. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCstackedwood.jpg)
Meats are smoked with oak wood shipped in from Texas. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCsides.jpg)
Sides include corn pudding, cucumber salad, collard greens, and sweet-potato-and-bourbon mash. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCcupcake.jpg)
The peanut-butter-and-jelly cupcake. Photograph by Scott Suchman
![Outtakes: Reviewing Hill Country](https://www.washingtonian.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/standard_HCcupcakeopen.jpg)
The cupcake has jelly on the inside. Photograph by Scott Suchman