The 1930s-era space across from Eastern Market used to be an apartment and office for the Acqua al 2 crew. They remodeled, but kept the original brick and beams. Photograph by Dakota Fine.
Chef Johnny Spero (left) and general manager Sean Alves (right) take a break from finalizing details in the hours before the restaurant opens. Photograph by Dakota Fine.
The word “suna” is Latvian for “moss,” a nod to both the cooking—“fine dining, inspired by nature,” per the menu—and Spero’s Latvian grandmother. You only get one menu, with two ways to dine: four courses (left) with a few choices, or eight (right). Photograph by Dakota Fine.
Suna is reservations only, and diners who opt for the eight-course menu put themselves in the hands of the chef. Photograph by Dakota Fine.
Storage is limited in the small space. A wall of dry goods across from the open kitchen houses a variety of spices, grains, and powders. Photograph by Dakota Fine.
The interior is a mix of rustic and industrial. Bathrooms have heavy sliding doors that latch shut, with European-style pull-chain toilets. Photograph by Dakota Fine.