Atmospheric it’s not—small groups of men picking at plates
while they watch CNN, and, if you’re lucky, Aunty herself knitting in a
corner. The cooking at this cafe is appropriately homey—with heaping
portions of the pepper stew called yassa, the fish-and-tomato
stew known as thieboudienne, and maffe, a peanutty lamb
stew. Dessert is a must: thiakry, a couscous sweetened with
yogurt and studded with raisins.