To call this place pan-Latin suggests a slick spot with
colorful drinks and cooking that’s more American than Latin. But this
jumping restaurant really aims to do it all—with dishes from El Salvador,
Mexico, Cuba (a good masitas de puerco), even Spain (the shrimp
in olive oil summons a tapas bar). Start with the pupusas—there
are seven varieties of the griddled pancakes, with nary a spit of
grease—then zero in on the carne asada.