Kevin Onyona’s always-swarmed restaurant bills itself as Kenyan, but that’s an inexact descriptor for his relentlessly cross-cultural menu, which includes samosas, chapati, and a fried tilapia drenched in a stinging masala sauce. The fish is marvelous, but the must-order is the goat wet fry, a mix of charred, bone-in goat, tomatoes, and onions that tastes like Africa’s answer to fajitas.
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Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Food Editor
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.