This is the pizza that Washingtonians mark time by. Other pizzerias have come along—snazzier, more sophisticated outfits, and the area has learned, over the past couple of decades, the styles and standards of classic, authentic Neapolitan pies. But after nearly 60 years, this remains one of the most beloved pizzas in the area.
Yes, it’s unorthodox in the extreme, and New Yorkers and Chicagoans may scoff at its deviations from convention. But true locals—not to mention Bruce Springsteen and the Stones, both of whom request orders when they’re in town—know that the charm of these pies is in their particulars. The rectangular shape. The sweet, biscuit-like crust. The thick layer of smoked provolone, not mozzarella.
Nothing else on the menu at this institution—a longtime fixture in Adelphi, now housed in a spiffy, glass-enclosed building a short walk from the University of Maryland (and not affiliated with any of the area’s many Ledo Pizza franchises)—is as consistently rewarding. And that’s precisely as it should be.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
