This aqua-painted restaurant—brought to you by Komi owners Johnny Monis and Anne Marler—continues to attract a line each evening well before its 5:30 opening. No advance reservations are offered for the $45 prix fixe feast featuring family-style dishes inspired by northern Thailand, and it’s not uncommon for hostesses to offer an 8:30 seating some three hours earlier. Worth the wait: seven searing dishes that include lively salads featuring, say, pig ears, chicken liver, or crispy rice cakes. Tame the heat with all-you-can-eat sticky rice and an array of herbs. We suggest splurging on the beverage pairing, a boozy journey that includes house-made vermouth, spicy German wine, and Bonal, a French aperitif.
Open: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner.
Don’t miss: Recent highlights from the set menu include pork ribs marinated in whiskey; corn-and-dried-shrimp salad; and coconut sticky rice.