If you’ve been to Johnny Monis and Anne Marler’s English basement turned Thai restaurant in the last couple of years, you’ll likely be familiar with many of the plates on the seven-dish family-style menu. But like a band deep into its tour, the set list has become tighter and the chords more masterful, even if the songs are well known. The fabled fieriness has been finely tuned, too. Rather than making diners beg for palate-soothing glasses of full-fat milk from the start, the spicing now slowly builds, crescendoes (with a sweat-inducing tofu salad), then abates with a plate of mild pork ribs marinated with Mekong whiskey and strewn with dill. The servers, all got up in oxford shoes and dresses that could be called schoolmarm-chic, possess a genuine warmth and excitement—they seem as in love with the place as we are.
Don’t miss: Nam prik with pork rinds; snakehead dumplings with tom kha soup; mushrooms with holy basil and egg; minced-chicken-and-liver salad; fried chicken.