You can’t be all things to all people, but this Cleveland Park barbecue emporium is sure trying, cramming North Carolina chopped pork, St. Louis ribs, Alabama white sauce, and even Thai satay under one roof. The results, predictably, are erratic.
While the burnt ends—extra-smoked bits of brisket—won’t transport you to Kansas City, they do have a hearty meatiness and good char. (The same can’t be said for the Texas-style brisket, which came out dry as saddle leather.) That Carolina-inspired chopped pork, soaked in vinegar, made for a pretty good sandwich, but pulled pork was wanly flavored, even with the array of sauces you can sample.
The dry-rubbed baby back ribs, pink and smoky, plus the creamy slaw and warm hushpuppies, are the strong-est offerings, but even they couldn’t keep us from dreaming of a road trip down south.
Preferably to one destination at a time.
This article appears in our October 2014 issue of Washingtonian.