Fusion mash-ups rarely end well. But owner Thaddeus Kim and chef Dan Wilcox Stevens have put a lot of thought into this minimalist Korean-meets-Cajun dining room.
Mokomandy stands for Modern Korean by Mandy (Mandy is Kim’s mom) but at times seems to be an homage to the inventive Asian cuisine of another Virginia native, Momofuku’s David Chang.
There are melting foie gras dumplings; pot-roast sliders with kimchee-marinated apples; and an engaging rice bowl with braised wild boar, chili sauce, and a fried egg.
Stevens wisely doesn’t attempt to marry the two cuisines but deals with each in turn. He takes more chances with the Cajun dishes—shrimp étouffée is rich with butter, and jambalaya with house-made sausage has a stew-like consistency—but both pack Louisiana-style heat.
- Spicy fava nuts
- Country meat board with foie gras butter and roast bone marrow