The chefs at this Cajun-Korean spot like to play with their food. They toss cracklings into jambalaya, stuff dumplings with foie gras, and stir morsels of pig’s head into gumbo. (It all works, believe us.) One of the best expressions of the kitchen’s daring is crispy catfish tossed with fresh and pickled peppers, Old Bay, and rémoulade—a crunchy, fiery, umami-packed dish that’s like nothing else. Ditto for sliders of Korean pot roast tucked into fried buns with apple kimchee. Cool down with beers, ciders, and stellar cocktails such as the bar’s riff on a French 75, made with hibiscus. Moderate.
Also great:duck boudin balls; wild-boar with duck egg and pork-kimchee rice; poutine with truffle oil; “karnivore” ssamwith beef short rib and shiitakes; chocolate pot de crème.