The southernmost satellite in the six-outpost empire of Baltimore restaurateurs Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman is long on charm—a lakefront vista, a roaring fireplace, a bar that’s missing only the beautifully drunk denizens of the Lost Generation. It all adds up to the most texturally perfect recreation of a Parisian bistro this side of Le Diplomate, and on a blustery night there are few restaurants we’d rather be inside.
The cooking is sometimes sublime—the foie gras terrine, for instance, one of the most silken preparations you’ll find—but mostly is content to deliver well-prepared bistro fare (frisée-and-lardons salad; a rosy duck breast).
Desserts read better than they taste. If you’re going to splurge, splurge on wine—Foreman, a Bordeaux fanatic, has an eye for exceptional reds at not-exorbitant prices.
- Asparagus soup
- Shrimp beignets
- Pork belly with favas
- Grilled salmon with asparagus
- Croque monsieur
- Steamed mussels
- Crème brûlée
- Cheese cart