Chef Cindy Wolf and partner Tony Foreman, known for Baltimore’s Charleston restaurant, nail the French bistro at this lakeside dining room with gilt mirrors and globe lanterns. The menu boasts smartly turned out classics including foie gras terrine, pommes Anna, and duck-leg confit. Apéritifs (like the pleasantly bitter, acid-yellow Suze d’Autrefois) and a long list of French wines with excellent by-the-glass offerings mean the crowd at the bar is often three deep. Desserts are nice enough, but if it’s either/or, the cheese cart is the way to go.
Don’t miss: Shrimp beignets; beet salad; croque monsieur; saffron mussels; lamb with vegetable couscous; roast chicken; chicken-leg confit; pear sorbet.