Saravan “Sam” Krishnan commanded the kitchen at the late, great Udupi Palace in Takoma Park, for 15 years a destination for veg-heads and devotees of southern Indian cooking. Here he shows that that meatless agenda was a mandate from higher-ups and not necessarily an expression of any personal mission. He can still turn out a light, crispy dosa and bring soul to a stir-fry of blistered okra, but the compass points in all directions—the rewarding barbecue meats from the north (get the spice-rubbed lamb chops, delivered on a sizzling skillet); the rice dishes from the west (go for rice doused with lemon and tossed with toasted cashews, cilantro, and curry leaves); and most intriguingly, a handful of obscurities from Hyderabad in the south, among them a marvelous pepper-laced curry with hard-boiled eggs.
Where you can get it: 13919 Baltimore Ave., Laurel; 301-497-2017
Also good: Lamb korma, a cashew-rich curry; chana bhatura, puffy, crisp breads served with chickpea curry.