Cheap Eats 2015: Curry Leaf

Where we get our favorite tandoori meat dishes.

About Curry Leaf


Saravan “Sam” Krishnan commanded the kitchen at the late, great Udupi Palace in Takoma Park, for 15 years a destination for veg-heads and devotees of southern Indian cooking. Here he shows that that meatless agenda was a mandate from higher-ups and not necessarily an expression of any personal mission. He can still turn out a light, crispy dosa and bring soul to a stir-fry of blistered okra, but the compass points in all directions—the rewarding barbecue meats from the north (get the spice-rubbed lamb chops, delivered on a sizzling skillet); the rice dishes from the west (go for rice doused with lemon and tossed with toasted cashews, cilantro, and curry leaves); and most intriguingly, a handful of obscurities from Hyderabad in the south, among them a marvelous pepper-laced curry with hard-boiled eggs.

Cuisine: Indian

Where you can get it: 13919 Baltimore Ave., Laurel; 301-497-2017

Also good: Lamb korma, a cashew-rich curry; chana bhatura, puffy, crisp breads served with chickpea curry.

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.