This Old Town fish-and-chips shop is not a boisterous place, but it’s filled with plenty of noise: the tearing of paper bags (even if you’re dining in, your food will come in one), the slurping of pints of Guinness, and most notably, the loud crunch that happens when you bite into a hunk of hot, freshly fried Maine pollock. That last sound is the most important, a signal of both a fabulous batter (it’s spiked with malt vinegar) and a deft hand at the fryer. The thick-cut chips let the flavor of the potato shine through, and you can pair them with a colorful array of mostly mayo-based sauces. It’s hard to say no to the creamy, pink Marie Rose, but the Kitty O’Shea, flecked with capers and olives, is a close second, giving everything it touches a tangy, salty kick.
Where you can get it: 728 King St., Alexandria; 703-299-8384
Also good: Codwich sandwich; fried chicken bites; fried prawns; coleslaw.