“Artisanal deli” sounds at first like a joke, like “upscale Amish.” But if charcuterie and pickles are enjoying a comeback, then what makes more sense than a deli, bastion of charcuterie and pickles, returning to its soulful roots? DGS makes its own pastrami and corns its own beef; one glance at the cutting board, where the spice-rubbed meat falls over in thick, juice-dripping slices, will have you salivating. The rye bread has an estimable crust, and the mustard is mixed fresh daily. And that’s just the sandwiches.
Where you can go for it: 1317 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202-293-4400
Also good: Matzo-ball soup; chopped chicken liver; chicken gyro; shakshouka, an Israeli stew of tomatoes, roast peppers, and poached eggs.