Kerry Britt’s ribs don’t take you to a particular place—they don’t summon Memphis or Kansas City or Birmingham. They have a taste all their own, a flavor developed methodically, in layers. Britt starts by soaking them overnight in a house-made mojo criollo, then seasons them with a rub. Next, he transports them to his smoker, where they’re given a five-hour stint over smoldering hickory. Finally, they get a finishing bit of char from his grill after you place your order. There are five sauces for those who need them, but you won’t. Extra points for the fresh-tasting slaw and beans, and for stocking two microbrews from Hyattsville’s Franklins when it would have been easier to go with Bud or Coors.
Where you can find it: 9101 Woodmore Centre Dr., Lanham; 301-322-1527
Also good: Smoked-turkey-and-corn chowder; cornbread.