It’s true, dinner here might take 45 minutes, max—and chances are you waited about two hours to get a barstool. But this teeny ramen perch overlooking H Street is well worth the hassle. (Plus, for those who don’t feel like chancing the line, Toki now takes a small number of reservations each night.) The five varieties of ramen are terrific across the board, with robust, pork-fortified broths; long, springy noodles; and accoutrements like bright pickled ginger and a runny sous-vide egg. The one-pot meal’s bookends are just as enticing: Start with bracingly refreshing cocktails and finish with a plate of chocolate-chip cookies, salty red-miso buttercream, and ice-cold milk.
Where you can get it: 1234 H St., NE; 202-388-3086
Also good: Pan-fried pork dumplings; fried-chicken steamed buns; dan-dan noodles with fried chicken; pork-fat noodles; classic, kimchee, and red-miso ramen.