“Serenity Now”—a menu section devoted to Calabrese olives, anchovies with bread and butter, and other snacks—embodies everything we love about Peter Pastan’s pizzeria and wine bar. These are simple dishes that rely on top-quality ingredients and studious technique. Grazers and adventurous eaters rightly swear by a meal from the changing small-plates roster, such as grilled peppers and anchovies with a glug of olive oil or braised beef meatballs crisped in the fryer. And don’t ignore the beautifully charred pizzas, best ordered with a side of tangy tomato sauce for dunking. Kids and families abound in the downstairs dining room. There’s a quieter space upstairs for stroller-free adults.
Don’t miss: Mozzarella-stuffed rice balls; escarole with anchovy dressing; Margherita pizza; “Norcia” pizza, with salami and peppers; Clam pizza; smoked swordfish with fennel; cannoli.