This is where Tom Power lets his hair down. His neighboring Corduroy is formal and elegant, with nary a note to be heard over the sound system. Here, in this high-ceilinged den, go-go music percolates and the chef works in a playfully casual vein, turning out, say, a foot-long griddled hot dog tucked into a seeded roll and draped with sauerkraut. There’s finesse to go with the fun. Power is a master soup maker, and if his elegant tomato version is on the menu, you’d be remiss for not starting there. The signature among the big plates is his faux rib eye, fashioned from a cut of beef shoulder and napped with a classical reduction of Burgundy—a.k.a. the best steak sauce around.
Don’t miss: Lobster bisque; tomato salad; Filipino spring rolls; ramen; soft-shell-crab sandwich; chocolate-WhistlePig custard.