Long before market/restaurant hybrids became trendy, chef Jeff Black’s seafood shop and dining room was a destination in the Palisades. Eleven years in, the crowds haven’t waned, though the space has been refreshed with bar-area banquettes and a brighter palette. Seafood—including specialties you can select from ice-laden cases for chefs to prepare—remains the main draw. Chef Mike Huff, who has spent time cooking in Italy’s Campania region, has added a few daily-special fresh pastas to the menu; they join a global lineup that’s strong when touching down in Europe (wood-grilled sardines with garlic-parsley sauce) and Asia (Skuna Bay salmon atop a rice tower). Portions run large and flavors tend to be rich, so it’s worth skipping a small plate and saving room for longtime pastry chef Susan Wallace’s retro sweets.
Don’t miss: Wood-grilled octopus with salsa verde; fried Ipswich clams with curry aïoli; steamed mussels with bacon and ale; whole grilled branzino with flageolet beans; jumbo prawn-and-red-miso stew; bouillabaisse; butterscotch pot de crème;banana-coconut cream pie.