Ashok Bajaj’s stately first restaurant wears its 28 years well, thanks to stellar service and a genteel ambience, plus touches that are just throwback enough to fit the vibe (tunes from a white piano). Still, for all the supper-clubby qualities, chef Nilesh Singhvi’s cooking tastes present tense. A variety of curries and artful thali tastings proffered on silver trays join seasonal specialties such as squash-stuffed samosas or vigorously seasoned ground-duck kebabs. Even carnivores shouldn’t ignore the vegetarian section, where mushrooms braised in cashew curry and 16-hour dal makhani reinforce the notion that great things develop with time. Desserts run overly sweet, even by Indian standards—try a sorbet or hard-to-find Amrut whisky instead.
Don’t miss: kale chaat; pan-fried crab with curry leaves; green-chili chicken; assorted breadbasket.