Cedric Maupillier led 2015’s most exciting restaurant opening (that’d be Convivial, number four on this list), but his original Adams Morgan bistro isn’t suffering from inattention. This is strapping Franco-American comfort food executed with immaculate care—as evidenced by his burnished, beautifully crisp escargot hushpuppies. The menu changes just enough to keep things interesting. Still, we’re glad Maupillier doesn’t seem willing to part with the stacked beet-and-goat-cheese salad and bacon cheeseburger that have been around since day one. The loud room—woodsy and lined with antique farming tools—has a wonderfully enveloping quality, especially in the dead of winter.
Don’t miss: wedge salad; kale-and-burrata salad; vadouvan-spiced pumpkin soup; cassoulet; veal schnitzel; crème brûlée; brownie sundae.