Come very hungry to this cozy Adams Morgan bistro, where the French-American flavors are as robust as the portions. Executive chef Cedric Maupillier left the line last year for sister restaurant Convivial, and while a few stellar standbys remain—the bacon cheeseburger isn’t going anywhere—new lead Eric McKamey delivers a fresh lineup to a reliably packed house. Plates aren’t quite as fine-tuned as in the past, but bold dishes reward: foie gras toast sauced with elderberry gastrique, orecchiette pasta tossed with braised rabbit and mushrooms, a crowd-pleasing juicy pork chop. No matter how little room you have left, indulge in nostalgic sweets such as baked Alaska ignited at the table. Expensive.
Also great: Provençal anchovy tartine; wild-boar rillettes; bacon-onion flammekueche; steak tartare; Key-lime pie.