In an unabashedly white-collar city like Washington, there aren’t a whole lot of blue-collar restaurants of worth—places with good food, moderate prices, and little pretense. The appeal of Trapezaria is that it occupies a point on the spectrum almost equidistant from fine dining and diner. Tablecloths grace the tables, but none of the plates that find their way to those tables is particularly pretty. And that’s as it should be—you’re here for rib-sticking satisfaction, not style. The dips, such as the taramasalata, all pop; the avgolemono is lemony and comforting; and the bigger plates, including the marvelous fried cod with skordalia—a kind of Greek fish and chips—have an assured simplicity.
Don’t miss: braised eggplant; tiropitas (cheese-filled pastries); broiled lamb chops; grilled octopus; moussaka; semolina custard; yogurt with honey.