We weren’t expecting cinnamon-bun greatness when we brunched at Convivial (801 O St., NW), better known for its fried chicken and deliciously messy burgers. But pastry chef Eva Kronenberg’s straightforward recipe—the only curve ball is a little dark rum in the cream-cheese icing—succeeds because it’s not afraid of excess. The buns, baked every weekend morning, are big enough for two and coiled with a wonderfully ridiculous amount of brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon.
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