It’s hard to imagine a more fitting bistro for Georgetown. The airy room is elegant enough for lunching ladies, while owners Eric and Ian Hilton (Brixton, Marvin, et al.) know how to whip up an evening buzz with cocktails such as Armagnac old fashioneds—not to mention their equally atmospheric wine room, Bar à Vin, next door. Still, it’s not all style over substance. Chef Brendan L’Etoile skillfully updates brasserie classics including local duck à l’orange—here, a seared breast with farro and a punchy citrus sauce—and mines Southern French gems such as pork-rich cassoulet Toulousain. If you see heads turning, that’s probably the showstopper Paris-Brest dessert—a tower of praline crème and puff pastry—heading through the room. Expensive.
Also great: Pork-and-prune pâté; onion soup; bluefish rillettes; escargots; trout grenobloise; sea bass with fennel.