Fusion fare gets a bad rap as a mishmash of random ingredients. Not so at China Chilcano, which embraces the influence of Chinese and Japanese immigrants on Peruvian cuisine—all with José Andrés’s modern flair. Some of the Asian/South American hybrids don’t feel particularly special, but dumplings and ceviches tend to be hits. A few dishes come with a tableside show. One worthy of applause: slow-poached red snapper in a clear parchment bubble, tied up with ribbon. A server unwraps it, unleashing an aromatic waft of seafood, then tops the fish with leche de tigre (the citrus marinade that cures ceviche), fresh herbs, and edible flowers. Moderate.
Also great: Tuna ceviche; “dorado” pork-and-shrimp dumplings; lamb pot stickers; parihuela (seafood soup); concolón (crispy fried-rice pot); pisco sour; shaved purple-corn ice.