After ten years in a cavernous spot on the Hill, Johnny’s is where it belongs—in a cozy Adams Morgan space that once housed co-owner Ann Cashion’s previous restaurant, Cashion’s Eat Place. There’s a palpable sense of happiness. Co-owner John Fulchino is a natural-born restaurateur, hugging regulars and bidding strangers “Good night, my loves.” Cashion’s food is just as worthy of excitement. Much of her Mid-Atlantic–meets-Southern menu hasn’t changed since the beginning—there are still the same wood-grilled wings with Green Goddess, crab imperial, and tasty pair of desserts. We’re wild about newer additions, too, such as a Cajun-spiced hard-shell crab with lemony butter and some of the best, olive-oiliest taramasalata we’ve ever tasted. Expensive.
Also great: Oysters; barbecue shrimp with Asiago grits; crabcake; streaky spoonbread; lemon chess pie.