Mike Isabella’s affinity for Greek cooking is beautifully expressed at this trio of restaurants. At the original Kapnos in DC, huge hunks of meat such as goat and lamb sizzle along a wall of rotisserie spits, wafting meaty perfume. Kapnos Taverna in Ballston explores the briny deep; splurge on a gorgeous seafood tower with its array of raw-bar items. At the newest outpost, Kapnos Kouzina, Isabella explores rustic plates including stellar Greek-fried chicken with burnt-honey harissa. The best shared qualities among the siblings are puffy house-made flatbreads, dips and spreads (never miss the taramasalata), grilled whole fish, and barman Taha Ismail’s crafty cocktails—we’re particularly fond of Kapnos’s boozy lemonades. Moderate to expensive.
Also great: Spanakopita with spinach and leeks; swordfish kebabs; charred octopus; lamb shoulder with harissa; fried Greek potatoes; spiked Greek coffee.