You won’t find California rolls at this tranquil, bamboo-toned restaurant in Kalorama. Second-generation sushi chef Minoru Ogawa practices traditional Edo-style sushi with fish from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market. Reserve one of eight seats for the chef’s $100 omakase—worth the splurge for a tasting from the master, who slices seasonal fish such as young snapper and dry-aged toro, shapes toothsome beds of rice, and brushes nigiri with soy sauce. A classic menu of tempura and artful nigiri and sashimi is served in the intimate dining room. Thrill seekers once traveled to sister restaurant Sushi Capitol for delicacies from Ogawa’s hands, and while it remains a great neighborhood spot—especially for maki fans— expats and Japanophiles have a new home here. Expensive to very expensive.
Also great: Miso soup with shrimp heads; toro-scallion hand roll; ume or matsu selection of sashimi or nigiri.