There aren’t many cozier places in DC than this restaurant. A ten-foot-long hearth sits at the center of the open kitchen, its flames visible from nearly every spindle-backed chair in the dining room. Fire is the key ingredient to many of Jeremiah Langhorne’s best Southern-accented sharing plates. A light char—and a bath of foie gras hollandaise—transforms lowly cabbage into something luxurious. Sweet potatoes, which turn custardy when roasted in the embers, are hit with lime juice and benne seeds (like sesame but nuttier). Then there’s the fried stuff—Langhorne’s version of sugar toads, a forgotten Chesapeake pufferfish that he chicken-fries and serves with hot honey, is the bar snack of our dreams. Expensive.
Also great: Hushpuppies; potato-confit salad; chicken and dumplings; butterscotch pie.