The hottest restaurant of 2013 is still a tough table to get. That’s because few places thrum along at such a high level and get so many things right, from the smoke-stained Parisian decor to the house-made baguettes and excellent cocktails (try the new Libation sans Représentation, a mix of sparkling wine and apple-and-cherry-infused gin). Fewer still are as suitable for brunch with the kiddos—who can resist those pancakes?—as they are for a birthday splurge (two words: shellfish plâteau). There have been more service hiccups of late, but at least the staff knows that most things—a late-seated reservation, a dish that takes forever to arrive—can be soothed with a round of free bubbly or dessert. Expensive.
Also great: Onion soup; foie gras parfait; mushroom tart; warm shrimp salad; skate grenobloise; cheeseburger; crème brûlée.